Edge molding apparatus



Sept. 10, 1935. F. APARELLA 2,013,834

EDGE MOLDING' APPARATUS Filed Oct. l5, 1952 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 A'rroRNEY Sept. 10, 1935. F. PAPARELLA EDGE MOLDING4 APJAMTUSv Filed Oct. 1 3, 1952 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Sept. 10, 1935'. F; PAPARELLA 2,013,834

EDGE MOLDING APPARATUS Filed Oct. 13, 1932 l5 Sheets-Sheet 3' 20e 2 j 3 34 1&0. 44 207 62 v 60 I 0121 1.250

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' ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 10, 1935 UNHTED STAT maar PAT

43 Claims.

This invention relates to pressing and molding apparatus and particularly to a novel device of that character adapted for molding and shaping edge port-ions of garments, such as the lapel and collar portions of coats, overcoats and the like.

Heretofore in the manufacture of clothing, difficulty has been experienced in shaping the edge portions of garments and this problem has been partiularly troublesome in the manufacture of lapels and the adjacent collar portions of coats and overcoats. As described in detail in my co-pending method application Serial No. 678,763, led July 3, 1933, the garment which has been manufactured completely up yto the final pressing operations, presents lapels and adjacent collar portions which are usually of distorted edge contour as a result of certain prior steps in the manufacture, such as the turning of the material, the button-holing, etc. Attempts to improve on the edge contour by manipulation of the material during the pressing operations have been of little avail. Furthermore, the pressing operations themselves have a marked tendency to dis- 2'5 tort the edge of the material due chiefly to the action of the steam in rendering the inturned seam cloth along the edge somewhat plastic, and the subsequent compressing action of the presser members in extruding or squeezing out the plastic seam cloth to form bulges or protrusions in the edge contour in addition to those formed during the prior steps of manufacture.

After the garment has been pressed, edge portions are folded back to form the exposed lapel and collar and in this folding operation great care is taken to insure that the fold line conforms to the fold line of the designers pattern. Heretofore unsatisfactory results have been obtained from gauging the position of the fold line by eye, which has necessitated additional manual operations -to determine the proper position of the fold. Furthermore, the formation of the crease along the line determined for the fold has been troublesome, particularly in heavy Winter overcoats Which present bulky gorge seams to be creased.

It is my object to obviate lthe difliculties heretofore involved in manufacturing the lapel and collar portions of garments by providing apparatus for molding the edge to produce the desired smooth edge contour, free from edge protuberances and conforming precisely to the edge contour of the pattern, including the edges of the notch separating the lapel and collar, which ap- 55 paratus, simultaneously with the edge molding operation, will also form an elongated impression in the surface of the material to predetermine, with mechanical accuracy, the position of the fold relative to the molded edge and to render the material easily foldable along the 5 line so determined. As will appear, my apparatus also simultaneously presses the upper and lower surfaces of the lapel and collar portions and thereby completely molds, shapes and presses the lapel and adjacent collar portion in exact 10 conformity with the pattern of the designer in all its details.

These and further objects and advantages of my invention will appear from a more detailed description thereof, taken in connection with the 15 accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. l is a plan View of my novel apparatus showing, on the right hand side, a coat lapel and collar portion in pressing position and, on the left hand side, the exposed cloth engaging 20 face of the cloth supporting or pressing piece;

Fig. 2 is a perspective vievv of the right hand side of my apparatus with coat removed;

Fig. 3 is a plan View of the central yoke member of Athe frame assembly; 25 Fig. '4 is a plan View of the left hand yielding frame member;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the right hand yielding frame member;

Fig. 6 is a front elevation View of the complete 30 frame assembly;

Fig. 'l is a plan View of the edge pressing assembly for the left coat lapel;

Fig. 8 is a plan vieW of the edge pressing assembly for the right coat lapel; 35 Fig. 9 is a sectional elevation view taken on the line 9-9 of Fig. l showing the upper presser member approaching its closed pressing position;

Fig. 10 is a View similar to Fig. 9 showing the upper presser member closed down in pressing 40 position;

Fig. l1 is an inverted perspective view of my novel edge pressing assembly showing the method ci securing together a templet andcorresponding cloth supporting piece; and 45 Fig. l2 is a detail sectional elevation View taken on the line l2-l2 of Fig. ll.

Referring to the drawings, the numeral I (Fig.

l) indicates the lower supporting presser member of a pressing machine of common type well known to the art. As shown in Figs. 9 and 10, the supporting presser member l is heated in any suitable manner such as is indicateddiagrammatically by the steam heating chamber 200 which receives steam from a suitable source through the pipe ZUI and from which the steam finds egress through the pipeV 202. The presser member I is also connected to suction apparatus in the usual manner as indicated by the suction chamber 203 which may be exhausted by means of the pipe 244 leading to suitable suction apparatus, and the chamber 223 communicates with clothing placed on the lower member I by means of suitable perforations, as indicated at 205, for the purpose of drawing drying air through the material. In most pressing machines of this type, the perforations 245 are provided throughout the entire area of the lower buck. As will ap-pear from a more detailed description of my apparatus, and as indicated in Fig. l, the material to be pressed, when using my apparatus, occupies only a portion of the area of the supporting presser member and if desired the suction may be concentrated at the areas over which the material lies by covering the remaining apertures 205 with a sheet of tin or other impervious material.

The upper buck 2, which may be heated in a manner similar to that of the lower buck I, is also provided with a chamber 2% communicating with a steam supply and provided with apertures 201 through which steam may pass to the material to be pressed whereby to soften the same.

As will appear, the apparatus which I provide for molding the edge portions of coat lapels and collars comprises certain molds or templets of novel construction which are superimposed on the supporting presser member I. Before discussing in detail the construction of the molds, I will describe the mechanism by which they are positioned and secured upon the supporting presser member I. The positioning and securing elements of my apparatus include a yoke member 4 (Fig. 3) which is secured to the supporting presser member I and comprises a central portion 5 which lies over the top surface of the supporting presser member I and is secured thereon by the front flange 6 (Fig. 6) and the rear, more extended, ange 'I disposed adjacent the front and rear portions respectively of the supporting member I. The rear iange I is curved to t against the curved rear portion of the supporting member and the front ange is provided with a thumb screw 8 to removably secure the yoke member' in place (Fig. 9).

When thus secured in position on the lower presser` member, the yoke member 4 yieldingly supports a pair of frame members I and II, shown in detail in Figs. 4 and 5, these frame members being provided for the left and right hand sides of the central yoke member respectively (Fig. l). As indicated, these frame members are roughly triangular in shape and each member is provided at its edge portions with ears I2, I3 and I4, .each one of which has a screw threaded aperture I3. The central yoke member 4 is similarly provided in both its right and left hand portions with ears I5, I and II, each one of which has an unthreaded aperture I 9 through which a bolt 2B, (Figs. 2 and 6), received by the screw threaded apertures I8 of each of the ears I 2, I 3 and I4 of the frame members I0 and I I may freely pass after the corresponding ears of the yoke and frames have been vertically aligned. Each of the bolts 26 is secured in position in its screw threaded aperture I3 by means of a lock nut 2i as best indicated in Fig. 2.

The bolts 29 thus secured in the right and left hand frame members I0 and I I afford means for yieldingly mounting the frames on the central yoke member 4 and for that purpose the lower end of each bolt protruding below an ear of the yoke extends into a compression spring 22 supported in vertical alignment with its bolt 20 by a plate 23 secured in depending position below the central yoke member 4 by means of screw 5 threaded bolts 24 (Figs. 2 and 9) passing into the ears of the yoke member 4 and provided with enlarged heads 25 adapted to support the plate 23 thereon. Each plate 23 may be provided with a suitable nub on which the lower end of its spring 10 may be seated. Each bolt 20, received by the upper end of a spring 22, is provided with a fixed collar 26 whereby upon depression of the bolt, compression of the spring 22 is effected as indicated in Fig. l0. In this manner each of the l5 frame members I and II is yieldingly supported on the central yoke member 4 at three places, whereby the frame members may be depressed from their normally elevated position wherein the plane of their upper surfaces is disposed above 20 the plane of the upper surface of the central yoke member to a position wherein these upper surfaces lie in approximately the same plane.

The rear flange 'I of the central yoke member 4 is extended at both ends beyond the ears I'I 25 and these extremities of the flange are nubbed at 29 to form a seat for a fourth compression spring 3B whose upper end abuts its respective frame member Ill or II at its outer end in the approximate position indicated at 3! in Figs. 1 30 and 4. For a purpose to be described the springs 30 are of heavier construction than the springs 22 to exert a considerably greater upward pressure against the frame members I0 and I I at the points 3| than is exerted by the relatively weaker 35 springs 22.

Each of the frame members I0 and II is adapted to removably secure a left and a right handed edge pressing assembly indicated generally at and 4I respectively in Figs. '7 and 8, 40 each of which assemblies comprises an edge pressing mold 42 or templet, and a cloth supporting piece 43. Each mold 42 consists of a metal slab or plate, preferably of substantially greater thickness than that of the material to be 45 pressed. The edge portion 44 of the mold is cut out in substantially exact conformity to the edge contour of the pattern of the material to be molded, so that the pattern and the shaped edge 44 of the mold will mate with each other. The wall edge 44 is cci-extensive with the entire edge portion of the material to be molded, and, as indicated by a comparison of the edge 44 with the edge of the material in Fig. 1, the wall edge includes an extensive lapel molding portion, a relatively shorter collar molding portion and the side surfaces of a projection or strip 45 received by the notch separating the lapel and collar portion and of a breadth and taper to conform to the notch of the pattern. To compensate for the difference in thickness between the mold and the material to be shaped, I provide as the second element of my novel assembly a so-called pressing piece disposed adjacent the material and adapted to transmit thereto the pressures of the presser members. If desired, the material may be disposed directly on the supporting pressing member I and the pressing piece to be superimposed on the material and between it and the upper presser member, in which event the yoke 4 and yielding frame members Ill and II would be disensed with and the molds 42 would be disposed directly on the supporting presser member I, but in my preferred elnbodiment, as herein i1- lustrated, wherein the molds 42 are yieldingly 7'5 held in elevated position above the supporting presser member i by means of the yoke 4 and yielding frame members i@ and Il, the pressing piece 43 is superimposed on the lower pressing member l and functions to elevate the material for direct engagement by the upper member 2. In either construction the pressing piece may well be of substantially the same thickness as the mold or templet if and has an edge 5@ (Fig. 11) formed in the shape of the pattern. The templet if and cloth supporting piece i3 are assembled as shown in Fig. 11 with the pressing or molding edge ifi of the templet contiguous to the correspondingly shaped edge 553 of the cloth 3 supporting piece which includes the slit 5i ref the under surface of the cloth supporting piece 43 be hollowed out and cast with a number of protuberances 52. The casting is drilled with small apertures 54 which provide ducts for the suction of drying air through the material being pressed and into the lower supporting presser member i. By this construction I provide a vacuum chamber in the under portion of the cloth supporting piece from which air is withdrawn through the apertures Eii (Fig. 9) provided in the supporting presser member l and into which vacuum chamber air is drawn through the apertures 54 and through the material. By the provision of such a chamber the necessity for aligning the apertures 54 with the apertures fili in the supporting presser member i is eliminated. The protuberanoes 52 form a support for the top wall of the cloth supporting piece intermediate its edge portions and enable it to more rmly withstand the heavy pressures of the upper presser member 2. By the provision of the protuberances 52 there is also furnished a relatively large heat radiating surface whereby the cloth supporting piece may cool quickly after use.

To secure the cloth supporting piece i3 and templet 4g together so that they may not easily be separated after first assembly and so that, at the same time, there may be a relative transverse motion of their mating edge portions, for a purpose to be described, I provide two connecting bars Gil and 6i both of which are secured to the under surface of the cloth supporting piece by means of bolts 62 received by screw threaded orifices the cloth supporting piece. The connectimg bar Gi is formed at its extremity opposite that receiving the bolts 52 with a head S5 forming substantially a T with the shank 6B of the connecting bar. As indicated in Fig. l2, the templet i2 is formed with a recess (il shaped to receive the head S5 of the connecting bar and has its side wall BS offset to form a web QQ to engage a lip l on the head 65. To assemble, the lip 'i6 can be inserted under the web 69 after which the other end of the connecting bar can be secured to the cloth supporting piece by the insertion of the bolts 2 therein. Similarly the connecting bar tu is provided with a head 'l2 formed with lip i3 received by a correspondingly webbed recess in the templet 42 and by this construction the templet and cloth supporting piece are secured together at their mating edge portions and are adapted for limited relative movement transverse of those edge portions. They can not be separated without removal of the screws 62. The additional portion i3 of the bar Sil shown as projecting beyond the head l2 affords a more extended support for the templet 42 at its broadest portion.

yielding frame member il) and i I, as shown in A-5 Fig. 1, I provide each of the frame members with a hollowed out portion iii (Figs. 4 and 5) which may be formed by casting'the frame members with recessed portions closed at ythe bottom by plates 32, countersunk into the under surface of the frame member as indicated in Fig. 5, and secured therein by suitable bolts. Each templet 42 is provided with a tongue 83 (Figs. 'l and 8) adapted, as indicated in Fig. l, to be received by its corresponding recess 8i. 15

The frame members i@ and i i are each further provided with a platform extension 9i) bounded by the curved rear wall 92 which forms an extension of the edge 93 of the frame. The edge surface Q3 and its extension 92 are curved to 20 conform to the curvature of the rear edge Q4 of the templet, which edges abut each other when the templet is mounted on the frame.

iet?, (Figs. 4 and 5) indicates a spring pressed plunger passing freely through the lugs lili, m2 25 formed to the rear of the platform 90 of the frame. A compression spring M33 surrounds the shank of the plunger HBO and is disposed between the lug m2 and a collar m4,(Fig. 4) fixed to the plunger. The thumb knob m5 abuts the outer 30 surface of the lug |02 and by this construction the plunger it@ will normally rest in its position indicated in Figs. 4 and 5 but may have its proiecting tip withdrawn from its indicated position upon manual retraction of the knob m5. Each 35 templet has a drilled recess liti (Figs. 'l and 8) adapted to receive the forward tip portion of the plunger. By this construction the templet may be removably secured to its respective yielding frame member iii or ii by inserting the 40 tongue t3 in its recess 3i and thereafter placing the rounded portion i ii of the templet on the platform Sil and forcing it against the wall 92 in which position the plunger Hifi will drop into the recess im to secure the templet in position. y

It is desirable that there be provision for securing the edge portions of the material in snug engagement with the molding edge of the templet and my preferred method has been to attach a piece of basting thread itil (Fig. l) to the point of the lapel prior to the pressing operation-and then, after the coat has been placed in pressing position against the templet, to pull the thread taut, thus forcing the coat and particularly the point of the lapel firmly against the edge of the templet and into the notched portion thereof.

To maintain the lapel and collar in this position the thread is caught under suitable thread holding means which may comprise a pair of separate annular convex discs i2i (Fig. 9) sup- 60.-

ported on a wood block H22 by means of bolt E23 passing freely through the discs ifi and into the block E22 in which it is secured by a lock nut at its lower extremity (not shown). Disposed between the convex annular discs illi and the ;I

from varying styles of coats as required by .differ- 755 ences in the direction in which the lapel is pointed. Each templet is provided with a groove |21 leading from the corner of the templet corresponding with the point of the lapel which groove guides the thread |23 to the proper set of thread securing discs |2|. 'Ihe wood block |22 is itself secured to its respective frame member ID or by means of the ears |25 (Figs. 4 and 5) extending from the rear of the frame members and provided with threaded apertures to receive the bolts |26 passing through the wood block |22.

To further secure the material in pressing position in snug engagement with the templet the central yoke member 4 is provided adjacent its forward ears l with a vertically extending protuberance |30 (Fig. 2) which is recessed to receive a needle |3| secured in desired vertical position by the thumb screv.T |32. As indicated in Fig. 1, the edge of the lapel remote from its pointed portion may be firmly secured in pressing position by impaling the same on the needle I may provide additional cloth securing means for the collar portion of the coat such as the spring clip |35 (Fig. 5) comprising two curved strips of spring metal secured together and to the frame members Il) and by bolts |36 as indicated. The bent ends |31 of the strips form a mouth into which the material may be easily inserted as shown in Fig. 1.

As stated above, the lapel and collar portions of the garment will not be reproduced in exact conformity with the pattern, even though the edges be perfectly shaped, unless the lapel and collar is folded back to expose an area which not only conforms with the width of the pattern but which also reproduces the lapel of the pattern in the position and direction of the fold relative to the edge of the lapel and collar. To insure mechanically that the folded-back portions accord with the design and to eliminate the necessity for resorting to the skill of the operative in properly folding those portions, I provide that during the time when the material is plastic under the influence of the steaming step and simultaneously with the molding of the edge,` the garment is impressed with an elongated indentation disposed in a predetermined position relative to the molded edge whereby to render the lapel and collar easily foldable along the grooved portions and to initiate the fold at the desired position.

As indicated in Fig. 1 the means which I provide for forming the impression in the desired position on the surface of the material comprises a rib or wire |40 disposed on the cloth engaging surface of the cloth supporting piece 43 in proper position relative to the molding edge 44 to initiate the fold in exact conformity to the fold line of the pattern. The wire |40 may be secured on the surface of the supporting piece 43 by bending the ends of the Wires over and forcing the bent ends into apertures |4| and |42 (Fig. 1) drilled in the upper surface of the cloth supporting piece.

With the device constructed as above described its operation is as follows:

As described in some detail above, the method of mounting the side frame members ill and on the central yoke 4, previously secured in place on the supporting presser member provides that the side frame members are yieldingly held slightly elevated above the plane of the central yoke member as is best indicated at a.' in Fig. 2. A right and left hand edge pressing assembly for the particular style of coat to be pressed is secured in position on the side frame members ||J and Il, in the manner described, in which position the cloth supporting piece 43 will rest on the supporting presser member and the 5 templet 42 will be yieldingly supported slightly above its cloth supporting piece with its molding edge 44 exposed (see also Fig. 9). A coat lapel and collar of two coats of the same style is then inserted in pressing position as indicated for one coat and the right in Fig. 1, each coat being secured therein by means of the thread |20, impaling needle |3| and spring clip |35 after which the upper presser member 2 is brought down on the entire structure thus supported on the lower presser member i. In this closing operation the lower cloth covered surface of the upper presser member 2 will first contact the templets 42 and frames l!) and Il and in further closing will depress the same until that portion of the upper presser member 2 disposed abo-ve the cloth engages the same. As is the common practicel in pressing clothing, steam is applied at this stage and after a brief steaming period, the steam is shut off and the presser member 2 firmly locked 25 down in pressing position. If desired (see my copending application above noted) the step of pulling the thread |29 taut may be postponed until after the preliminary steaming operation and immediately prior to locking the machine closed.

It is most important that the point of the lapel be fitted well into the corresponding notch of the templet. To avoid any tendency of the point to ride up out of the notch as the templet is depressed I provide the stiff springs 3i! to force the notched portion of the templet rmly against the lower surface of the upper presser member 2.

It will be noted that the templet 42 will not be depressed further than is required to bring its uppersurface in the plane of the upper surface of the material with the result that even with the upper presser member fully closed in its locked position there will still remain a protruding edge of the templet to engage the edge of the mate- 45 rial which templet edge portion will be at least as wide as the thickness of the material.

After the completion of the pressing operation the upper presser member 2 is unlocked and raised in the usual manner, at which time the yielding frame members and will again raise their respective templets to their initial elevated positions.

As indicated in Figs. 9 and l0 the wire |40 will form an indentation on the under surface of the material which indentation will be disposed in the position relative to the edge of the material exactly corresponding to the position of the strip |40 with relation to the edge 44 of the templet. This indentation provides an initial break in the material along which it is readily foldable, thus mechanically insuring that the lapel and collar fold will invariably be in its desired position.

It will be apparent that my apparatus is subject to various modifications within the spirit of my invention which is to be limited only as indicated in the appended claims. For example, if the pressing machine is to be used only for edge pressing and not interchangeably for edge and common flatwork pressing, the supporting presser member may be specially constructed with the central yoke member, or its equivalent, and the yielding frame members I0 and as integral parts of the supporting presser member. The

machine may, of course, be adapted for use for edge pressing of all sorts and my invention is in no way limited to the pressing of lapel and collar portions.

I claim:

1. In an apparatus for pressing and molding edge portions of garment material, the combination of a presser member adapted to press Ina-- terial, cloth supporting means adapted to support the material against the pressures of the presser member, an edge molding member' having a wail portion shaped to conform to the desired contour of edge portions of the material, means for holding the said Wall portion of the molding member adjacent the cloth support-ing means whereby the said wall abuts externally and molds the said edge of the material during the pressing of the surface of the material by said presser member and means for movably securing the edge molding member for movement in a direction transverse to the piane of the said supporting means.

2. The apparatus as defined in claim l wherein the cloth supporting means includes a cloth en- 1 gaging surface having an edge slidably secured to the Wall portion of the edge molding member and adapted for relative movement between the edge molding member and cloth supporting means in a direction transverse of the edge of ,l the material.

" being pressed in snug engagement with the shaped Wall portions of the edge molding member.

5. A device as defined in claim 1 wherein the edge molding member is mounted on means for yleldingly supporting the molding member with its shaped wall projecting beyond the plane of 'the cloth supporting means in a direction perpendicular thereto.

The device as defined in claim 1 which includes means for forming an impression in the material whereby to render the material easily foldable at a predetermined distance from its edge.

` 7. in an apparatus for pressing and molding material having an edge portion to be molded in prole, the combination of cloth supporting means having an edge portion shaped in the pattern of the material, an edge molding member having an edge portion shaped to conform to the shaped edge of the cloth supporting means and means slidably securing the correspondingly shaped edge portions of the molding member' and the cloth supporting means in contiguous position whereby the edge molding member may move relative to the cloth supporting means in a direction transverse of their contiguous edges.

8. A device as dened in claim 7 which includes means for drawing drying air through the material.

9. A device as defined in claim 7 wherein the cloth supporting means is provided with a vacuum'chamber communicating with the material being pressed through a plurality of ducts whereby drying air is drawn through the material upon the Withdrawal of air from said vacuum chamber.

10. A device as denned in claim 7 which include-s means for forming an impression in the material whereby to'render the material easily ioldable at a predetermined distance from its edge.

l. A device as dened in claim 7 wherein the means slidably securing together the edge molding member and the cloth supporting means in- 5 cludes means for limiting the said relative movement to a predetermined distance in a direction transverse of their contiguous edges.

12. In a pressing apparatus the combination of a yoke provided with means for removably securing it in superimposed position on a supporting presser member, a frame member yieldingly mounted on the yoke member and adapted for mover. .ent relative to the yoke in a direction toward and away from the supporting presser member, an edge molding member adapted to be fitted contiguous to the edge of the material to mold the same and means for removably securing the edge molding member to the yielding frame member where-by the molding member 20 may move with the frame member in a direction transverse of the edge of the material.

13. A device as dened in claim 12 which includes means for securing the edge of the material in snug engagement with the edge molding member.

ifi. In a device for pressing and molding edge portions of a garment, the combination of means for pressing the surface of the material, supporting means adapted to support the material against the pressures of the pressing means, edge molding means having a molding wall shaped to conform to the desired edge contour of the material and adapted to have its shaped wall portions tted contiguous to and externally abutting against the edge of the material, and means externally attached to an edge portion of the material for drawing it in close engagement with the edge molding means.

15. A device for use in pressing operations to secure the desired shaping of the edge of a coat lapel and collar portion, said device having edge portions provided with a projection adapted to t into the notch separating the coat lapel and collar portions and indentations adjacent the said projection adapted to receive the points of a collar and lapel during a pressing operation, and means for detachably securing a thread extending from a portion of the edge of the coat, whereby to hold the edge in snug engagement with the device.

16. In a device for pressing and molding edge portions of the lapel and collar of a garment, the combination of means for pressing thesurface of the material, supporting means adapted' to support the material against the pressures of the pressing means, edge molding means having a molding wall shaped to conform to the desired edge contour of the material and adapted to have its shaped wall portions tted contiguous to and externally abutting against the edge of the material, cloth securing means externally attached to the point of the lapel for drawing edge portions of the material in snug engagement with the edge molding means, and means for securing and holding taut said cloth securing means.

17. In a device for pressing and molding edge portions of a garment, the combination of a frame, an edge molding member, mounted on the frame, shaped to conform to the desired contour of edge portions of the garment and adapted to be iitted contiguous to the edge portions of the garment with their conformingly shaped r edge portions externally abutting against each "d other', a pressing piece disposed adjacent the material adapted to receive and transmit pressure to the garment to press the same, connecting means joining the edge of the garment and securing means for holding taut the connecting means joining the garment for maintaining the edge of the garment firmly against the edge molding member.

18. A device as defined in claim 17 wherein the connecting means joining the garment comprise a thread -attached to the edge of the garment and guided by a groove in the edge molding member to securing means on the frame.

19. In a device for shaping margins of material to be folded, the combination of means for pressing the surface of the material, supporting means having a surface adapted to support the material against the pressures of the pressing means, edge molding means having a molding wall shaped to conform to the desired edge contour of the material and adapted to have its shaped wall portions tted contiguous to and externally abutting against the edge of the material supported on said supporting means and a rib on said surface of the supporting means disposed in predetermined position relative to the wall portions of the molding means and adapted to impress the material with an elongated indentation whereby to shape the edge of the material and simultaneously to define the fold in predetermined position relative to the shaped edge.

20. In a device for shaping folded margins of coat material, the combination of a wall adapted to abut against the edge of the material and mold the same, means for pressing the material having a surface disposed contiguous to the surface of the material and having an edge adapted to abut the said wall and a rib on said surface disposed in predetermined position relative to the said edge of the surface adapted to form an impression in the material to render it readily foldable at a predetermined distance from its edge.

21. In a device for use in pressing lapel and collar portions of a coat to secure the desired contour of edge portions thereof the combination of a pressing templet having an edge portion shaped to conform to the desired contour of the edge of the lapel and collar portions, a pressing piece having an edge portion shaped to t the working edge of the templet and adapted to be disposed adjacent the lapel and collar portions when in pressing position with the edges of the templet and pressing piece contiguous and means for impressing the material with an elongated indentation whereby to insure folding of the collar and lapel at a predetermined distance from their edges.

22. A device as dened in` claim 21 wherein the means for impressing the material comprise an elongated rib projecting from the cloth engaging surface of the pressing piece.

23. A device as deiined in claim 21 wherein the means for impressing the material comprise wire strip means mounted on the cloth engaging surface of the pressing piece.

24. In a device for pressing and molding edge portions of a garment, the combination of a supporting presser member, a cloth supporting piece superimposed on the supporting presser member and adapted to elevate the pressing position of the material above the surface of the supporting presser member, edge portions of the cloth supporting piece shaped in substantial conformity with the pattern of the material, an edge molding wall shaped to mate with the pattern, means for securing the molding wall contiguous to the shaped edge of the cloth supporting piece, means whereby to expose a molding surface the height of which exceeds the thickness of the material, meansexternally attached to an edge portion of the material for securing the latter in close engagement with the edge molding wall and ex- 10 ternally applied means adapted simultaneously to depress the molding wall so that its height does not substantially exceed the thickness of the material and to force the edge of the material against the molding wall by applying pressure to the exposed surface of the material,

25. In a device for pressing and molding edge portions of a garment, the combination of a supporting presser member, a cloth supporting piece superimposed on the supporting presser member and adapted to elevate the pressing position of the material above the surface of the supporting presser member, edge portions of the cloth supporting piece shaped in substantial conformity with the pattern of the material, an edge molding wall shaped to mate with the pattern, means for securing the molding wall contiguous to the shaped edge of the cloth supporting piece, means for elevating the molding wall whereby to expose a molding surface the height of which exceeds the thickness of the material, an elongated, fold-initiating rib disposed adjacent a surface of the material and in a predetermined position relative to the said molding wall, means externally attached to an edge portion of the material for securing the latter in close engagement with the edge molding wall and externally applied means adapted simultaneously to depress the molding wall so that its height does not substantially exceed the thickness of the material and to force the edge of the material against the molding wall by applying pressure to the exposed surface of the material.

26. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of different styles of irregular edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each diierent style of garment portion and thereby adapted to press dierent styles of garment portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface to externally abut the edge of the material, said molding surface having an irregular contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment and means for positioning and securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member.

27. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of different styles of irregular edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member,

a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of garment portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of garment portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface to externally abut the edge of the material, said molding surface having an irregular contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members 7U -for elevating the molding wall 5 and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member, and a rib engaging a surface of the material during the molding of the edge thereof and disposed between the said members and in predetermined position relative to the said molding surface, adapted to form an impression in a surface of the material whereby to define the position of a fold.

28. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of different styles of irregular edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of garment portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of garment portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface to externally abut the edge of the material, said molding surface having an irregular contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member, pressing means replaceably interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion f1tting contiguous to the molding surface of the said wall and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members and means externally engaging the material to draw edge portions thereof in firm engagement with the said molding surface.

29. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of different styles of irregular edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of garment portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of garment portions,4 an edge molding wall having a molding surface to externally abut the edge of the material, said molding surface having an irregular contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member,` pressing means replaceably interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion fitting contiguous to the molding surface of the said wall and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members, and a rib engaging a surface of the material during the molding of the edge thereof and disposed between the said members and in predetermined position relative to the said molding surface, adapted to form an impression in a surface of the material whereby to define the position of a fold.

30. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of different styles of irregular edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting ypresser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of garment portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of garment portions, an edge `molding wall having a molding surface to externally abut the edge of the material, said molding surface having an irregular contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member, pressing means replaceably interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion fitting contiguous to the molding surface of the said wall and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members, means externally engaging the material to draw edge portions thereof in firm er1- gagement with the said molding surface, and a rib engaging a surface of the material during the molding of the edge thereof and disposed between the said members and in predetermined position relative to the said molding surface adapted to form an elongated impression in a surface of the material whereby to define the position of a fold.

31. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of different styles of edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of garment portion and therebyl adapted to press different styles of garment portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface to externally abut the edge of the material, said surface having a contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member and to be engaged thereby during the pressure applying movement, and means for yieldingly supporting the said molding wall in its secured position to expose a height of said molding surface exceeding the thickness of the material to be shaped, said means being adapted to yield upon said engagement of the wall by the movable pressure-applying member whereby to effect depression of the molding surface to a height substantially equal to the thickness of the pressed material.

32. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of different styles of edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of garment portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of garment portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface to externally abut the edge of the material, said surface having a contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment, means for positioning and rev secured position to expose a height of said molding surface exceeding the thickness of the material to be shaped, said means being adapted to yield upon said engagement of the wall by the movable pressure-applying member whereby to effect depression of the molding surface to a height substantially equal to the thickness of the pressed material, and pressing means replaceably interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion fitting contiguous to the molding surface of the said wall and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members.

33. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of different styles of edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of garment portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of garment portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface to externally abut the edge of the material, said surface having a contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member and to be engaged thereby during the pressure applying movement, means for yieldingly supporting the said molding wall in its secured position to expose a height of said molding surface exceeding the thickness of the material to be shaped, said means being adapted to yield upon said engagement of the wall by the movable pressure applying member whereby to effect depression of the molding surface -to a height substantially equal to the thickness of the pressed material, pressing means replaceably interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion fitting contiguous to the molding surface o-f the said Wall and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members and a rib engaging a surface of the material during the molding of the edge thereof and disposed between the said members and in predetermined position relative to the said molding surface adapted to form an elongated impression in a surface of the material whereby to define the position of a fold.

34. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of coat lapels and collar portions of different styles of edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of lapel and collar portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of lapels and collar portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of lapel and collar portion and including portions shaped to receive and mold the points of the lapel and collar and a projection disposed between said portions adapted to enter and mold the notch separating the lapeland collar of the garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member, pressing means replaceably interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion fitting contiguous to the molding surface of the said wall including the said projection and point receiving portions thereof and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members, and a rib engaging a surface of the material during the molding of the edge thereof and disposed between the said 5 members and in predetermined position relative to the said molding surface adapted to form an elongated impression in a surface of the material whereby to define the position of the fold.

35. In a device for shaping the edges and pressl0 ing the surfaces of coat lapels and collar portions of different styles of edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the 15 area to be pressed of each different style of lapel and collar portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of lapels and collar portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface complementary to the desired edge contour of 20 one style of lapel and collar portion and including portions shaped to receive and mold the points of the lapel and collar and a projection disposed between said portions adapted to enter and mold the notch separating the lapel and 25 collar of the garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member, pressing means replaceably 30 interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion fitting contiguous to the molding surface of the said wall including the said projection and point receiving portions thereof and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members, means externally engaging the point of the lapel to draw the edge thereof in rm'engagement with the said 40 correspondingly shaped portion of the surface of the molding wall, and a rib engaging a surface of the material during the molding of the edge thereof and disposed between the said members and in predetermined position relative to 45 the said molding surface adapted to form an elongated impression in a surface of the material whereby to denne the position of the fold.

36. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of coat lapels and collar 50 portions of diierent styles of edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style 55 of lapel and collar portion and thereby adapted to press different styles of lapels and collar portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of lapel and collar portion and 60 including portions shaped to receive and mold the points of the lapel and collar and a projection disposed between said portions adapted to enter and mold the notch separating the lapel and collar of the garment, means for positioning 65 and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member and to be engaged thereby during pressure-applying movement, means for yieldingly supporting the said molding wall in its secured position to expose a height of said molding surface exceeding the thickness of the material to be shaped, said means being adapted to yield upon said engagement of the wall by the movable pressure applying member whereby to eiiect depression of the molding surface to a height substantially equal to the thickness of the pressed material, and pressing means replaceably interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion fitting contiguous to the molding surface of the said wall including the said projection and point receiving portions thereof and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members.

37. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of coat lapels and collar portions of different styles of edge contour and surface area, the combination of a supporting presser member, a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area exceeding the area to be pressed of each different style of lapel and collar portion and thereby adaptedto press different styles of lapels and collar portions, an edge molding wall having a molding surface complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of lapel and collar portion and including portions shaped to receive and mold the points of the lapel and collar and a projection disposed between said portions adapted to enter and mold the notch separating the lapel and collar of the garment, means for positioning and replaceably securing a molding wall of desired style between the said members and in position to be overlapped by the said pressing surface of the movable member and to be engaged thereby during pressure applying movement, means for yieldingly supporting the said molding wall in its secured position to expose a height of said molding surface exceeding the thickness of the material to be shaped, said means being adapted to yield upon said engagement of the wall by the movable pressure applying member whereby to effect depression of the molding surface to a height substantially equal to the thickness of the pressed material, and pressing means replaceably interposed between the said members having a shaped edge portion tting contiguous to the molding surface of the said wall including the said projection and point receiving portions thereof and having a pressing surface disposed adjacent a surface of the material and adapted to receive and transmit to the material the pressure applied by the said members, means externally engaging the point of the lapel to draw and secure the edge thereof in rm engagement with the said correspondingly shaped portion of the surface of the molding wall, and a rib engaging a surface of the material during the molding of the edge thereof and disposed between the said members and in predetermined position relative to the said molding surface adapted to form an elongated impression in a surface of the material whereby to dei-lne the position of the fold.

38. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of garment portions of diffent styles of irregular edge contour and surface area, the combination of cloth supporting means, an edge molding wall extending above said supporting means and having a molding surface of an irregular contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of garment, said wall being positioned adjacent the cloth supporting means whereby partly to dene an effective pressing area bounded in part by said wall,

and a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area which is in part co-eX- tensive with said effective pressing area and in part extending beyond said effective area to overlap said wall, the said pressure-applying member 10 being thereby adapted for use with molding walls of different styles of molding surface contour.

39. A device as defined in claim 38 which includes means externally engaging the material to draw edge portions thereof in firm engagement with the said molding surface.

40. A device as defined in claim 38 which includes rib means disposed between the cloth supporting means and the pressure-applying member and in predetermined position relative to the said molding surface adapted to form an impression in a surface of the material whereby to define the position of a fold.

41. A device as defined in claim 38 which includes means for yieldingly securing the wall in its said position adjacent the cloth supporting means to expose a height of said molding surface exceeding the thickness of the material to be shaped, and means associated with said pressureapplying member adapted to engage the said wall and depress the same during the pressure-applying movement of the said member.

42. In a device for shaping the edges and pressing the surfaces of coat lapels and collar portions of dierent styles of edge contour and surface area, the combination of cloth supporting means, an edge molding wall extending above said supporting means and having a molding surface of a contour complementary to the desired edge contour of one style of lapel and collar portion and including portions shaped to receive and mold the points of the label and collar and a projection disposed between said portions adapted to enter and mold the notch separating the label and collar of the garment, the said wall being positioned adjacent the cloth supporting means whereby partly to define an effective pressing area bounded in part by said wall, and a movable pressure-applying member having a pressing surface area which is in part co-extensive with said effective pressing area and in part extending beyond said effective area to overlap said wall, the said pressure-applying member being thereby adapted for use with molding walls of different styles of molding surface contour.

43. In a device for predetermining the position of the fold of adjacent lapel and collar portions of a garment, the combination of a cloth-engaging surface, rib means secured to said surface, stop means secured at a predetermined distance from said rib means and adapted to abut the apex of the notch separating the lapel and collar, and a second stop means secured in predetermined position relative to said rib means, adapted to abut the edge of the material to position 65 the said edge at a predetermined angle relative to said rib means.

FRANK PAPARELLA. 

